Advice About Small Pets

Tortoise Hibernation Protocol

BEGINNING HIBERNATION

• 2 weeks before hibernation:
  • withhold food, continue to offer water/bathe in tepid water daily
    
• 1 week before hibernation:
  
  • start to cool down - switch off heating, then move to progressively cooler locations around the house
    
  • check fridge temperature with max-min thermometer - aim for 5'C (must be less than 10', nearer to 0' risks frost damage)
    
• on the chosen day:
  
  • record weight
    
  • place tortoise in a box surrounded with shredded paper
    
  • place in a larger box also insulated with shredded paper
    
  • place the whole thing in the fridge at 5'C

! remember insulation will reduce the impact of any temperature fluctuation, but will not prevent freezing if the temperature drops below zero for any length of time

check weekly: weigh, check mouth

end hibernation if losing more than 1% of body weight/month
end hibernation if tortoise urinates, unless also drinks

in the first year (2-3 year old tortoise) hibernate for up to 1 month, then add 1 month each year up to 3 months total

WAKING UP

• Remove from fridge, allow to come to room temperature over 12-24 hours. Then return to the vivarium at normal temperature (at least 25'C to allow normal functioning)
• Bathe in tepid water daily
  
• Offer food - if tortoise is not drinking within 24-48 hours, or not eating with 5-7 days then seek veterinary advice.

Rabbit Information Sheet

Feeding Your Rabbit.
Rabbits need a diet with lots of roughage, good quality hay should always be available along with a constant supply of fresh water. Commercial rabbit foods are readily available and should be of good quality, we recommend either Russell Rabbit Food or, for rabbits who pick out their favourite bits and leave the rest, Supa Rabbit Exel, both of which are available from the surgery. Vegetables are an important part of the diet, these should always be fresh and washed. Freshly cut grass (not clippings) and dandelion leaves can also be fed. Spinach and rhubarb should not be fed.

Exercise.
Rabbits enjoy daily exercise, a run with access to grass is ideal. Outdoor exercise is an important part of your rabbits daily routine. It not only keeps him fit, but sunlight helps to keep vitamin C and D levels elevated for healthy teeth and bones.

Teeth.
Rabbits teeth grow continually throughout their life, if they are misaligned they can overgrow and cause soreness in the mouth and difficulty eating. Check your rabbits front teeth (Incisors) weekly, if they become too long, contact your vet who will be happy to burr them down. Overgrown back teeth (molars) can cause the rabbit to stop eating, dribble or lose weight. If your rabbit shows any of these signs, contact your vet immediately to arrange trimming under sedation.

Fly Strike.
Fly strike (maggot infestation) can occur during the warm months. This usually occurs in overweight animals as they cannot reach to clean around their bottom when they get soiled. It is advisable to check your rabbit twice daily during the warm weather to make sure it is clean. We also advise that you keep your rabbit slim.

Neutering.
As with dogs and cats, rabbits should be neutered to help prevent health problems. Males (Bucks) can become smelly, aggressive and also may spray urine when they mature. It is very common for females (Does) to have false pregnancies and start to pull their fur out, to become depressed and even aggressive. Spaying can also extend the life span as it prevents potentially life threatening tumours in the uterus. There is, unfortunately, some risk under anaesthetic for rabbits, but we take all possible precautions and this is something to discuss with your vet.

Vaccinations.
Rabbits should be vaccinated against two deadly diseases, Myxomatosis and Viral Haemorrhagic Disease. These are both killers but can be vaccinated against, either yearly in the case of VHD or six monthly for Myxomatosis.